Peppers are one of the most commonly used vegetable in the kitchen today. They come in a rainbow of colors varying in size and taste from mild to very hot. Peppers add color and interest to the garden. Peppers are warm season crop usually grown alone side tomatoes as they are both acid loving plants.. Pepper plants require somewhat higher temperatures, grow more slowly and are smaller than most tomato plants. They require fairly high temperatures for germination and growth but benefit from exposure to chilly temperatures early in there growth cycle. After seedling have grown three sets of  true leaves lowering the temperature to about 55° for 4 weeks will make them more productive later. This can be accomplished with an outdoor cold frame made from glass or plastic. Peppers also have a higher than normal light requirement for rapid growth. Pepper plants should never be handled after smoking or handling tobacco. Peppers are sensitive to exposure to tobacco mosaic virus.

Planting Suggestions
A hearty pepper crop begins with large vigorous healthy seedlings 6 to 8 weeks old, grown in 4" or larger growing pots. Growing your own seedlings insure quality and varieties not commercially available. pepper seedling are commonly found commercially if you prefer just buying your seedlings. The seeds should be started about 6 to 8 weeks before your average last frost date in your zone,  Make sure the seed starting mix is a light sterile soil mix with a liberal portion of Perlite or Vermiculite to maintain moisture. 

Sow 2 seeds per 4"pot about ¼" deep in pre-moistened growing mix. During the day, keep the seedling  next to a sunny window after they have germinated. Move to top of the water heater or refrigerator at night if you do not have a greenhouse. A heated greenhouse will produce ideal, controllable growing conditions. I also use supplemental overhead florescent lighting.  Never allow your lights to burn more than 16 hours per day. A cheap electrical timer is the key to success here. Seedlings must be allowed to have a period of rest from light to grow properly. Hang your lights 1½ inches above the tops of the seedlings. This will prevent the seedling from becoming leggy. Raise the lights suspended by a chain as the plants grow. Do not allow the soil to dry out.  I feed my newly emerged seedlings every other watering cycle. I prefer feeding my young seedlings with Fish Emulsion or liquid seaweed.  After they have grown 2 true leaves use a fertilizer high in phosphorus. Fertilize every two weeks until transplant time. Four weeks after seedlings have emerged clip off at the soil line the smallest of the 2 seedlings with scissors. Take care not to disturb the roots of any peppers. They are very sensitive to root damage.

Water seedlings well one hour before transplanting.

Harvesting and Handling
 Never pull a seedling from a growing cell. Turn it upside down cradled between your fingers and shake out gently. Great care should be used not to damage pepper roots. Water the pepper plants during transplanting  using about 1 pint of starter solution on each transplant, or use commercially prepared starter solution according to manufacturer's instructions. This can be a weak solution of  20-20-20  general plant food or commercially available root stimulator. This will encourage rapid root growth & produce heads of acceptable quality. Cover the entire  36" wide bed including the trench between the rows with leaves or straw mulch. The mulch will retain moisture, attract worms, and reduce the growth of weeds in the beds. Any weeds that do germinate are easily removed by hand or light cultivation. When it is time to water your plants simply apply a moderate amount of water into the trench between the row you formed earlier. Do not apply water to quickly as you may wash out  soil holding the water. The water will slowly soak deeply onto the root zone.  Using this method your plants will always have adequate moisture to perform well.